Alien Bee/Softlighter II Review

In January, I ordered off camera photo lighting. After quite a bit of research, I finally settled on AlienBee B800s, two of them. I ordered a heavy duty stand and a general purpose stand from the same manufacturer, Paul Buff. After further research I had Buff throw a remote activation system, the Cybersync CSR and CST into the box. He sent along a shoot through umbrella as well. I ordered a Softlighter II from another source in lieu of a softbox.

I immediately noted that the general purpose light stand did not seem stable enough with the monolights. I ordered another heavy duty stand from Buff, and set aside the lighter duty stand for speedlights. In general, I have been impressed with the Alien Bees lights and the Cybersync activation system. I have used the system on five photo shoots over the past month and a half. I have not had one misfire.

The AlienBee monolights can be set to operate as a slave, using the Nikon's commander mode to activate them, or they can be activated with a radio control system such as the Cybersync. My preference is to make my key light radio controlled, and operate the accent light as a slave. I have also modified a Vivitar 283 speedlight with a Wein Peanut Slave to use as a hairlight if desired.

The AlienBee monolights recharge fast. I have found that I can shoot a burst of five frames per second, with the two B800s set to half power and I will not have a single dim frame. If I raise the power up to 3/4 or above, a slight difference in the image lighting can be discerned in successive frames.

I like the fact that I can plug everything into a wall socket and forget about batteries. Already, the difference between the Vivitar 283 and the AlienBees is apparent. I would not want to be limited by my supply of Duracells or tethered to a convenience store. Sure, a wall socket and alternating current has it's limitations as well, but that is only a limitation of location. I can plan for that, and switch to all speedlights if I have no power.

The Softlighter II is a very well made light modifier. The system can be used as a softbox, a bounce umbrella or a shoot through umbrella. That is versatility. I have found the construction to be superb. When stowed, the Softlighter II is as small as an umbrella in a cloth case. In fact, it comes with its own cloth case that holds everything. It is quick to assemble, and simple to use. The only issue I have had is the fire resistant sock is about 1/32 too small to fit over the AlienBee monolight's square case. A little stretching of the stitches to the point of refusal, and the Softlighter fit, but a better fit would be appreciated. Of course, the Softlighter is from another manufacturer, and it can't be expected to fit everything perfectly. This would not be an issue with most monolights or with speedlights.

The umbrella shaft of the Softlighter II is a two piece affair, allowing the lower section of the shaft to be removed once the umbrella is opened. Then the Softlighter can be brought right up to the subject, resulting in incredibly soft light. Initially I was concerned about the quality of the threads on this shaft. I should not have been. They are cut well, and I have not had a single crossthreading incident. I have not placed any grease on them, but I might dab a bit of high temp white grease on them in the future as insurance. The Softlighter II is so flexible, so easily carried, and creates such a beautiful glow that I plan on ordering another one in the future, just to have a back-up and possibly use as a soft accent.

Now, I am a rank noob when it comes to studio lighting. I do not have the years of experience using different brands and set-ups on difficult locations that some people have. I have only used these lights and modifiers in five or six photo shoots thus far. Still, they have been packed, unpacked and packed again easily and without fail by a newbie. They have traveled down dirt roads and across railroad tracks in a plastic box tossed in the back of a Jeep. Did I not once say I don't baby my equipment? I think so. There will be some readers who will want to know how the equipment held up after a year of this, and that is understandable. At present, I can only give my assessment from where I am at now. The stuff is durable and it has improved my portraiture markedly. I should have made this leap long ago. It is exhilarating to have so much to learn again.

I once thought that lights were a nice addition to photography. I was wrong. Photography is all about light. Without the ability to control and manipulate the light, the photographer is at the mercy of the sun and clouds, or severely limited to amateurish on camera flash photography. That is not where I wanted to be. I have finally come to the realization that my lights and my ability to control them are as important as my camera body and lens. There is no reason that the investment should not be comparable.

The final indicator of quality lighting is in the images though, so with apologies to those readers who come here for the guns (see the Clark Meltdown 649 post y'all) here are some of my recent portraits with the strobist information............

Strobist: AlienBee AB800 with Softlighter II camera left. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist info: AlienBee B800 with Softlighter II camera left, 10:00. AlienBee B800 with reflecting umbrella camera right, 3:00. LumaPro speedlight as a hairlight. Triggered by Cybersync. Gold reflector at 4:00.

Strobist info: AlienBee B800 with Softlighter II camera left, 10:00. AlienBee B800 with reflecting umbrella camera right, 3:00. LumaPro speedlight as a hairlight. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist info: AlienBee B800 with Softlighter II camera left, 10:00. AlienBee B800 with reflecting umbrella camera right, 3:00. LumaPro speedlight as a hairlight. Triggered by Cybersync. Gold reflector at 4:00.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 9:00. AlienBee 800 camera right 1:30. Vivitar 283 with Wein Peanut Slave as accent. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 3:00. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 2:30. Reflector camera right. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera Right 9:00. AlienBee 800 with umbrella camera left 11:00. Vivitar 283 with Wein Peanut Slave as accent. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II as Keylight. AlienBee 800 with umbrella camera left at 11:00. Vivitar 283 with Wein Peanut Slave as accent. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist info: AlienBee B800 with Softlighter II camera left, 10:00. AlienBee B800 with reflecting umbrella camera right, 3:00. LumaPro speedlight as a hairlight. Camera rotated 45 degrees. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 10:00. Reflector camera right. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera Right 9:00. AlienBee 800 with umbrella camera left 11:00. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 9:00. AlienBee 800 with umbrella camera right 2:00. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist info: AlienBee B800 with Softlighter II camera left, 10:00. Gold reflector camera right, 3:00. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 10:00. Reflector camera right. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 9:00. AlienBee 800 camera right 1:30. Vivitar 283 with Wein Peanut Slave as accent. Triggered by Cybersync.

Strobist: AlienBee 800 with Softlighter II camera left 9:00. AlienBee 800 camera right 1:30. Vivitar 283 with Wein Peanut Slave as accent. Triggered by Cybersync.

For those faithful readers who have endured thus far, or who might have an interest in photography. more of my work can be see on my photostream on flickr. Feel free to comment there as well as here.

Books I have been reading on photography and lighting:
Sculpting with Light: Techniques for Portrait Photographers by Allison Earnest

Minimalist Lighting: Professional Techniques for Studio Photography by Kirk Tuck

Beyond Portraiture: Creative People Photography by Bryan Peterson

And finally, because I feel I need help in this area,

Posing Techniques for Photographing Model Portfolios by Billy Pegram

Lights

The AlienBees monolights and accessories came in yesterday via the brown van of joy. I spent the evening checking things out. Everything seems to work well, and the equipment was well packaged for shipping.

I plan to order another heavy duty light stand and use the lightweight stand with a reflector. I just have more confidence in the larger stands. I'm looking forward to a learning curve with studio lighting. More later.......

Pocket Wizards

Choices Made.

I ordered the studio lights over the weekend. Two AlienBees B800s, a general purpose stand, a heavy duty stand, a shoot through umbrella and the Softlighter II. I also ordered the Cybersync CSR and CST units to activate the lights without a cable tethering the camera to them.

While I wait for the lights to arrive, I am brushing up on my reading about lighting. Lots of information out there.........

I went by Neil's pawn shop. The Model 10 was still on the shelf priced at $299.

AlienBees B800 Information & Testing

I'm considering purchasing some studio lights for portrait work. The AlienBees set-up is looking attractive. I'm thinking a B800 with an umbrella, and the 10 ft GP stand.

More on AlienBees.

Update: The more I research AlienBees, the more I like them. The price is extremely competitive. The owner of the company, Paul Buff, is a retired USMC avionics technician who revolutionized the studio lighting industry through customer service, customer focused marketing, durability, and price.

I'm already considering a brolly box Softlighter II to soften and diffuse the light, and possibly a backlight to separate the background. The initial expense will be something I will have to grin and bear.....

Paul Buff interview

Nikkor 500mm ƒ8 Reflex

Yes, I finally found a subject that it captured beautifully. Thank you.

Hardshell Camera Cases

I am looking into converting several military grade hardshell equipment cases into camera cases. Unfortunately, the interiors could use some protective foam inserts. I'm not a real fan of the open cell pick and pluck stuff. I prefer the sturdier closed cell foam dividers. If possible, I would even consider inserts that are removable soft sided camera cases themselves.

Yeah, I know, Pelican has great stuff. I already have these low profile hardshell cases though. Does anyone know of any sources for the basic raw components of a divider system that will hold up to steady use? Give URLs if possible.

Edited to add: I found this wonderful interlocking foam tile stuff intended to pad the floors of weight rooms...........

Tripod

Last week I researched and ordered a tripod to last me for the rest of my life. What I recieved is a tripod I will surely hand down to my son or daughter. The Manfrotto 055X Pro is one solid piece of equipment. The three section legs are aluminum, with positive locking lugs. The center support quickly goes horizontal if desired.

The Joystick head (322RC2) is the cat's meow. It postively locks in any position when the trigger is released, and it has a quick release to attach onto the bottom of the camera. A locking cam secures the quick release, and a pin lock secures the cam.

The price from Amazon was extremely competitive, and the free shipping was lightning fast. Count this as one of the best investments I've made.......

Tripod Shopping

When I started to consider the type of photography that interests me the most, portraiture, still lifes and landscape photography, I realized that it might be time to upgrade from the aluminum tripod that I purchased years ago at the Navy Exchange. The Velbon tripod I bought back then was barely adequate, and it became a learning experience in what I wanted in a tripod.

My upgrade requirements for the legs were three section aluminum legs that could support 11 pounds of camera and glass without a shiver. I wanted to be able to shift from a vertical to horizontal arm with ease. The portability of the tripod was not as much a concern for me as stability. I am not one to hike for a day into the wilderness or about town with a tripod on my back anymore. I am, however, likely to set things up where it might be bumped by someone not paying attention. After reading reviews all over the internet, I chose the Manfrotto 055XPROB Pro Tripod Legs by Bogen for my legs. I found the best price on amazon.com.

Professional quality tripod legs do not routinely come with a head. I was used to the old twist 'em and pan 'em rod sticking out the rear of the Velbon tripod, and my technique had adapted to it. Even though I tend to erect the tripod, attach the camera, line things up and shoot, I wanted a head that adjusted easily, was compact, and functioned similarly to what I was used to. The Manfrotto 322RC2 Horizontal Grip Action Ball Head with a RC2 Rapid Connect Plate seemed to be just the ticket. I was concerned about quality of construction though. I surfed through numerous online reviews again, and when I found it was constructed of magnesium instead of plastic, I was sold. I added it to my order at amazon.

With guns, I often tell people that the sting of the price disappears long before the regret of a cheaper, inadequate choice made on the basis of price. I also tell people that putting a cheap scope on an accurate rifle results in an inaccurate rifle. The same holds true for photography support equipment. I'm still feeling the sting, but I have a feeling that it will go away as soon as I start using this set-up.

Giotto Rocket Blower

I'm a confirmed skeptic about many things. When I needed to get the dust off my DSLR sensor, I followed the instructions in this video, and had fairly decent results. I still had a couple of specks on my camera's sensor, so I gave it another go, and the results were the same.

I had made a substitution for the recommended blower though. I was using a bulb off a blood pressure cuff as a homemade air blaster. I decided the price of a Giotto Rocket Blower ($12.95) might be a risk worth taking. I placed one on order. It arrived today.

This rubber rocket ship moves more air than a Rush Limbaugh at a burrito festival. One pump of the bulb is enough to send my daughter's hair flying. One quick squeeze is enough to make Ilsa stop in her tracks and slick her ears back. A few puffs of this thing and my camera's sensor was spotless. I suppose the Giotto Rocket Blower could be used for a lot of things, but for this purpose it is the cat's meow.

Just in case anyone wants to know.........

Katz Eye

One of the limitations I find with the Nikon D-200 is when it comes to using my manual focus Ai-S lenses. I'm pretty handy with a ground glass Fresnel focus screen, but the smaller viewfinder of the DX camera does not make it easy. I found myself longing for a classic split prism screen with the surrounding microprism. I had resigned myself to slightly out of focus manual shots when I learned of the Katz Eye focusing screens on Ken Rockwell's excellent website.

The Katz Eye is an independently manufactured manual focus replacement screen for many different makes and models of auto focus cameras, including the Nikon D-200. From several independent testimonials, it seems as though it does not affect auto focusing of the camera with AF lenses, nor does it affect metering. From Fox O'Rian on flickr:

"I'm impressed with how well centered the prism is relative to the AF points (though it took some careful placement to get it that way.) The AF and metering aren't affected at all by this screen, and I dare say the center AF point is performing better than usual.

Most importantly, the prism and microcollar actually works correctly. When shooting with AF, I can now easily tell if the AF is focusing correctly and if I need to quickly make any minor adjustments in case it was off. This should really help me get more sharp shots more often. It's invaluable with lenses like my 85mm prime."

Copied from the Katz Eye website:

"The Katz Eye™ focusing screen for the Nikon D200 has NO effect on existing viewfinder information. All viewfinder markings, including focusing points and on-demand gridlines will still function normally. The Katz Eye™ focusing screen for the Nikon D200 shows only a very minimal effect on light metering. In our testing, the Katz Eye™ screen tested within factory tolerance in nearly all situations. The only exception is when using spot metering mode with lenses having a maximum aperture slower than f3.5 (higher numerical f-stop). With lenses slower than f3.5, it is advisable to use either centerweighted average metering or matrix metering to preserve accurate meter response. In the event that spot metering mode must be used with a slow lens, it is advisable to set an appropriate exposure compensation by reading the histogram of a test shot.

For many photographers who grew up using manual focus cameras and who still possess a collection of very nice and familiar manual focus glass, a split prism surrounded by a microprism in the viewfinder has an importance that is not entirely related to familiarity. Much of my past photography relied on a shallow depth of field with fast prime lenses.

A few days ago I received an auto focus 50mm ƒ1.8 lens that I won on ebay. My 85mm ƒ1.8 lens is also a fast prime. Essentially, all my manual focus lenses except for the 300mm ƒ4.5 light pipe have been replaced by an equivalent either in a prime lens or through a zoom lens. At 300mm (actually 450mm on a DX camera) the focus assist of the Katz Eye would almost certainly black out. I would gain an extra f-stop by using my manual 50mm ƒ1.4 and 35mm ƒ2.8 Ai-S lenses, but the ISO capability of the D-200 compensates admirably for the loss of one f-stop.

The Katz Eye manual focus screen is $105 without the OptiBrite treatment, $160 with it. There is presently a 10% off Spring special happening. The Katz Eye would have been good to know about when I first purchased the D-200. I had a collection of Ai-S lenses at hand, but I am not sure whether or not I would benefit from such an addition to my camera now. I suspect I would, as I find myself shooting in low light with fast primes frequently. The real question though, is how fast and how accurately the auto focus system works in such an environment. Only time can tell me that.

Independent review of the Katz Eye split prism screen on a Nikon D-200

Katz Eye Installation instructions for the Nikon D-200 (pdf file)